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Thread: removing the loading caps on 808 drivers

  1. #1
    Senior Hostboard Member Steve Mac's Avatar
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    I've got a supposedely "matched" pair of 808a drivers. I had them redone at GPA but they needed more work. One driver still has a bug screen which I removed. Then I found some black wool plush felt at JoAnne Fabrics, removed the loading caps, lined the mounting cap with the felt and found some 6-32 5/8" machine screws to replace the old ones. Honestly it sounds much better. Thanks to all here who have mentioned this mod as it had a striking effect on what I can only describe as more musical. I also noticed some oxidation inside the driver which I carefully pulled out bit by bit with a walnut pick. These drivers sound much better than when I first bought them and without you guys I would've never learned a number of essential tips to ge them sounding "right". Thanks again. This is a great forum.

  2. #2
    Inactive Member gamalot's Avatar
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    Hi Steve, I did this a while back and also noticed a great change. Member Dwojo described the proceedure and gave some tips.
    Use masking tape doubled backwards to clean the gap. It' a PITA but it works and I think it's a bad idea to use metal any where near the magnetism.
    Also not sure if it matters or not but the original screws that held the cap and fram were non magnetic and they should probably remain so.
    I just cut the original screws down the thickness of the loading cap I removed.

    Gary

  3. #3
    Senior Hostboard Member Steve Mac's Avatar
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    Thanks...
    yer right the metal machine screws are non-magnetic. I didn't feel any field/pull when they were mounted. But I'm assuming they are aluminum? If what they are mounted to is magnetic...I don't see the problem.

    When I first got the drivers I did slide tape in the fram area but it was then I decided to send them back to gpa and not mess with it. But looking through the front past where the bug screens are there were a couple of build ups that needed removing. And I wasn't into taking the frams out to get at it.

  4. #4
    Senior Hostboard Member Steve Mac's Avatar
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    Originally posted by gamalot:
    Member Dwojo described the proceedure and gave some tips...
    Gary
    <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Oh, and thank you Mr.Dwogo

  5. #5
    Inactive Member edfallon's Avatar
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    For others wanting to do this, just tell GPA you want them converted. Bill completely went through mine, added the correct felt, re-magged them, swapped the wiring to newer style, installed new diaphragms, and all for the price of just new diaphragms.

  6. #6
    Inactive Member Bill F777's Avatar
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    The screws were probably not aluminum, it would break too easily. They were probably a good grade of stainless steel, good grades of stailless are not magnetic. Another metal that is not magnetic is brass, and brass screws are easy to get.

  7. #7
    Inactive Member dgwojo's Avatar
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    I use stainless steel 6-32 screws, they're strong, easy to get and cut to size with wire strippers. Be careful when removing bug screens, sometimes that leaves play in the throat, maybe a drop of super glue will keep it from possibly resonating. Dave.

    PS - MCM has wire strippers with bolt cutters on a $3.99 sale right now, item # 58-12535.

    18

  8. #8
    Inactive Member dgwojo's Avatar
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    You're welcome Steve!!

    <font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ March 24, 2008 06:44 PM: Message edited by: dgwojo ]</font>

  9. #9
    Senior Hostboard Member Steve Mac's Avatar
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    Oh, it's d"g"wogo...sorry.
    Thanks to all for the tips.

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